Photo Tutorial: Twisted German / Old Norwegian Cast-On

Everyone has their go-to or workhorse cast-on. More often than not it can be a Knitted cast-on or a Long-Tailed cast-on; or perhaps the Cable cast-on. The one I tend to use is the Twisted German cast-on, also known as Old Norwegian cast-on. For speed I’m going to call it – TGCO.

The reasons I prefer this one are –

• I find it to be the quickest one to do (look at the video at the bottom to see how fast)
• It has a good balance between being a stretchy cast-on, as well as, springing back into place. I find the knitted cast-ons tend to be too tight for most situations.
• It creates a strong stable stitch that is easy to knit into on that first row. Some cast-ons can be very tricky or time-consuming on that first row.
• It is also a fantastic cast-on for top down socks – as it is so stretchy.

Last year, I made a cast-on flow chart for the blog, which can be useful in determining what type of cast on to use.

I prefer to learn from a photo tutorial but for those of you who prefer a video, there’s a quick demo video at the bottom of the post.

Step 1: TGCO is a type of long tailed cast-on, so first of all measure out enough yarn to cast on the full length. A good starting point to work this out is, for DK weight yarn or thinner, then 1/2 inch per stitch plus 6 inches and for thicker yarn then 1 inch per stitch plus 6 inches. Make a slip knot and put it on your needle. I don’t think it matters much but I tend to put the ball end of the yarn at the back (over my forefinger).

Step 2: Place your fingers between the strands and tilt your hand back into a catapult position. This creates a cross on the thumb strand.

Step 3: Take the tip of the needle to the front and under the two strands crossed on your thumb.

Step 4: From that position, now go over the top of this and down into the centre of the two strands on the thumb.

Step 5: Now pull the needle to the front – the back strand of the thumb will be on the needle.

Step 6: Now keeping the strand on the needle, take it over all the strands on the thumb and the first one on the forefinger.

Step 7: Hook the first strand on the forefinger with the needle and pull it through the little gap next to the needle.

Step 8: The next step is to drop the strand from the thumb – I tend to tilt my thumb forward…..

…and just as it drops off my thumb, I swing down and pick the strand at the bottom back onto my thumb (that way the whole cast-on is smooth and there is no slowing down between stitches).

Step 9: Once the bottom strand is on the thumb, pull back to your left and back into the slingshot position. Pull the strand so the stitch sits on the needle. I find that if you pull to the left rather than tightening it by pulling to the floor, the cast on will be stretchy. There are occasions that you want a tight cast-on and in those situations I may pull it down instead. It may take some time to find the right tension for you but pulling to left is a good place to start.

Step 10: Repeat steps 2-9 until you have the desired number of stitches.

If you’d like a PDF of this tutorial then just follow this link.

A video to give you an idea of how it flows and how fast you can cast-on.

Photo / Diagram Tutorial: Double Estonian Cast On

A while ago, I made a photo tutorial for the Estonian Cast On. The Double Estonian Cast On is a simple variation of this. The edge is thicker and more decorative. It is ideal for 1 x 1 and 2 x 2 ribbing, as it wraps the base of the ribbing columns. It is firm, but stretchy - this makes it a great cast on for socks.

My Little Duck socks that I blogged about last week used the Double Estonian Cast On.

The actual cast on is the same for both the single and double Estonian Cast on. It's just the starting bit that's a little different.

1. As for any long tail cast on, measure out a long tail. I tend to use 1 inch per stitch for thicker yarn and 1/2 inch per stitch for DK weight and thinner; plus another 6 inches for luck! 
   
   
   
2. Instead of making a slip knot, fold the yarn again to the same length that you've measured. You should have 3 lengths folded instead of 2 for a long tailed cast on. Leave a bit extra at the tail end for sewing in the end.

3. Make a slip knot about 6 inches in from the tail, using two strands. This will leave two loops on your needle.
   
4. It should look something like this before you put it on the needle.
   
5. And look like this when it's on the needle.
   
   
   
   And real life photo to show you what it should look like.
   
   
   
   
   
6. The double stranded part should be at the front of the needle and goes around your thumb and the strand attached to the ball goes around your forefinger.
   
   
7. The double stranded slip knot counts as 1 stitch only
   
   
   
I'll repeat the original tutorial now. Though it will be slightly different because to make the wraps sit at the base of 2 x 2 columns, the first stitch needs to be done with the yarn wrapped clockwise first. The original tutorial was based on a 1 x 1 where it doesn't matter which way you go first ( so apologies for the photos having an extra stitch on them ).
 
1. Place your hand into the sling shot position (like a long tailed cast on) but wrap the thumb yarn clockwise around your thumb.







2. Insert your needle into the loop on your thumb from top to bottom







3. Reach across over the top of the strand on your forefinger.







4. Scoop this loop back through the loop on the thumb.





5. Drop loop from the thumb and tighten stitch onto needle (again, not too tight). There should be a bar across the base of the cast on and the stitch just made.


6. Place your fingers between the strands and tilt your hand back into a catapult position. This creates a cross on the thumb strand (the yarn goes anti-clockwise around your thumb).



7. Insert your needle into the loop around your thumb from below.





8. Reach across over the top of the strand on your forefinger.





9. Scoop this loop back through the loop on the thumb.





10. Drop the thumb strand and tighten the stitch onto the needle (not too tight though). You may recognise the previous steps, as it's the same as a regular long-tailed cast on.


Repeat steps 1-10 until you have your required number of stitches. Remember, the two loops for the slip knot count as 1 stitch.


For a sock, make sure you have the wraps on the right side of the work. This means that if you normally join in the round by swapping the first and last stitches, then the work will be facing the wrong way.

Little Ducks

I showed you a work in progress photo of my Little Duck Socks recently. Blogged here

They are now finished with plenty of time for Christmas.

The duck stitch pattern is from Mary Jane Mucklestone's 150 Scandinavian Knitting Designs. I did her workshop a few months ago. This is the first of lots of project ideas from the book.

The rest of the sock is my design. I reversed the ducks for each sock (just for added cuteness!).

Mainly the socks were worked on 2.5mm needles - my new Nova Cubics DPNs, which I really enjoying working with. The stranded sections were done on a 3.00mm, so they didn't pinch in at that point. The change in gauge is obvious to me, especially on the toe but it does make them fit better ( I suppose I could have increased stitches instead - maybe next time).

I used a Double Estonian Cast On for the ribbing. I've been using the single Estonian Cast On for most ribbing at the moment, it makes a firm but stretchy cast on - plus it's quite decorative. I made a photo tutorial for the single Estonian Cast On here. I have plans to add an extra tutorial to this for the Double Estonian Cast On.

The other project swiftly on then off the needles again was Tricsi by Asa Tricosa. I used Debbie Bliss Blue Faced Leicester DK in gold. The pattern is very unusual. It's a top down cardigan. There isn't a seam at all on it, which is good. This does make it a complicated pattern though. However, it is a very detailed pattern with photos to guide you through the unusual construction. I didn't have any problems with it. The only slowing down point was Step 8, which explains all the increases up to where you separate for the sleeves. The instructions are all there but it's explained about 3 different ways including a chart. This is good and bad. The information is all there but you really do need to read through all of step 8 (as suggested) before you continue. 

I loved not having to pick up the neckband, it's all worked in as you go. There is a little bit of picking up but hardly any that go into double figures, so easy to work in.

I loved the fluted ribbing (it's not a standard rib but very pretty) on the back and on the sleeves.

The cardigan is for a friend who is expecting in January but we've no idea what gender the baby is so I'm hoping this would suit either.

Day Three: Cast On Flow Chart

"There are many ways of conveying information on a blog; text and images being the two most widely used. Many infographics combine both these elements to provide a visual way of presenting text information."

"Make your own infogaphic (no fancy imaging software needed, you can draw it on paper and photograph it if you want) to convey any element of your craft(s). It can be just for fun or a thoroughly researched presentation of an idea/finding. "

From Eskimimi Makes 

This is by no means an exhaustive list of all the cast ons out there. I haven't included many two colour ones or all the different versions of tubular cast ons. I'm sure there are plenty I've missed off but hopefully it's a bit of fun and it might help you discover a new cast on.

Photo Tutorial: Estonian Cast On

I've recently been looking into different cast on methods. I've tried quite a few and they've all got their purpose but I have taken quite a fancy to the Estonian Cast On (a.k.a. Double Start, Latvian). It's quite simple to execute, it's stretchy and can be quite decorative too.

It works well with 1 x 1 and 2 x 2 ribbing because it wraps around the base of the column of ribbing. It's a super cast on for socks.

The tutorial is for the single strand method.

1. Measure out a long tail. I tend to use 1 inch per stitch for thicker yarn and 1/2 inch per stitch for DK weight and thinner; plus another 6 inches for luck! Make a slip knot and place on your needle.

2. Place your fingers between the strands and tilt your hand back into a catapult position. This creates a cross on the thumb strand.

3. Insert your needle into the loop around your thumb from below.

4. Reach across over the top of the strand on your forefinger.

5. Scoop this loop back through the loop on the thumb.

6. Drop the thumb strand and tighten the stitch onto the needle (not too tight though). You may recognise the previous steps, as it's the same as a regular long-tailed cast on.

7. Here's where it's different to the long-tail cast on. Now place your hand back into the sling shot position but wrap the thumb yarn clockwise around your thumb.

8. Insert your needle into the loop on your thumb from top to bottom.

9. Reach across over the top of the strand on your forefinger.

10. Scoop this loop back through the loop on the thumb.

11. Drop loop from the thumb and tighten stitch onto needle. (again, not too tight). There should be a bar across the base of these two stitches.

12. Repeat steps 2-11 until you have your required number of stitches.

This method can also be done with two strands of yarn around the thumb. This creates a thicker, more decorative edge.

I'm definitely going to use the Estonian Cast On for my next pair of socks.