Photo Tutorial: How to Improve the Loose Knit Stitch Before a Purl

When working ribbing, ever had that loose knit stitch before you change to purl? It’s a common problem. The reason it does it this is because the way a purl stitch is worked, it uses a little bit more yarn than a knit stitch and the excess moves into the last knit stitch and makes it loose. It’s the same reason why rowing out can happen for some – when you’re working stocking stitch and your purl rows look bigger than your knit rows. Rowing out doesn’t always happen, it’s often a combination of yarn fibre, tension and knitting technique.

There is a way around this and there are quite a few tutorials out there on how to fix this. I’ll show you how in a minute but the basic idea is that if you combination purl that first purl stitch after your knit stitch, it will tighten things up.

A normal purl involves wrapping the yarn anti-clockwise around the needle and a combination is wrapping the yarn clockwise. This uses less yarn though it does mean the stitch sits on the needle backwards, so you have to remember to work into the back of the stitch on the next row/round.

Tension does have an effect on whether you have a loose knit stitch in the first place. I find since I tend towards being a tight knitter then I don’t always have this issue, which is a bit of a problem when you try and do it intentionally for a tutorial!

The question I had about this technique is what do you do on the next row afterwards. Do you just work normally and work into the back of the stitch or do you repeat the technique or what happens if you work all the purl stitches this way?

I’d decided that when I worked in the round then it made sense to repeat the combination purl into the back of the stitch every row but what if I’m working back and forth. So what I did was repeated the same knitting swatch for each variation to see which one I preferred the look of. Just bear in mind this is what happens with my knitting technique and this particular yarn. You may want to repeat this for yourself and see which you prefer.

I found that when I was doing the cuffs of the Esquel poncho and I was working at a loose tension and the knit stitches were looking messy, so I used the large needles and that yarn to do my testing.

What I decided from this was the combination purl on the first purl on both the RS and WS rows was the neatest option (bottom left). The combination purl on all the stitches on both sides was pretty neat too but I found it opened up the first knit stitch of the column instead.

I found that working the combination purl every other row (whether on all the stitches or just the first one) made for a messy purl column.

So from now on I’m going to make sure I combination purl just on the first stitch but on both right side and wrong side rows. The winner….

So I’ll show how to do it now.

1. When you get to the first purl stitch after a knit stitch, insert the needle into the stitch as if to purl.

This is what you do the first time you do this - on all successive purl rows the stitch will be seated on the needle backwards, so insert the needle into the stitch as if to purl backwards (so from the back and left to right – sorry forgot to photograph that bit)

2. Wrap the yarn around the stitch clockwise (instead of anti-clockwise as for a normal purl) and work the stitch.

3. On the wrong side (WS), we want to mirror what we did on the right side. When you get to the last knit stitch before you change to purl, the stitch will be sitting  backwards on the needle. The column of stitches on the reverse will open up with this technique but better on the wrong side than on the front of your work.

4. Insert your needle into the stitch as if you were going to knit into the back of the stitch.

5. Knit the stitch but wrap the yarn clockwise around the needle and work the stitch. This stitch just worked will be sitting backwards on the needle.

Just repeat this every time you come to this section in your knitting. The stitch will be sat backwards on the needle every time you come to it and hopefully remind you to knit or purl it by wrapping your yarn clockwise around the needle. If you forget to do it then pop a stitch marker in to remind you.

I’m working on this lovely pink aran coat at the moment and the technique is working well to make the transition from knit to purl neat and tidy.

Photo Tutorial: How to Measure Yarn for Intarsia

This year I’m doing Debbie Abrahams’ Mystery Blanket. There’s lots of intarsia.

I’m taking some advice from a friend and sorting out my materials for each square when I get the patterns. This means I can just grab a bag and start knitting when I’m in the mood.

One thing that’s very useful to know is how much yarn to measure off for your intarsia bobbins. You may be of the persuasion to wind a bit off and hope for the best; if you’d rather be more accurate then hopefully the following will be helpful. It would be useful if you are short on yarn, or like me want to prepare in advance, or if you travel about with your knitting and want to take less yarn with you.

First, count the number of stitches in each section you’ll be knitting.

Here’s a sample chart -

You can just count each square and make a note of it. Or here’s a few tips to make the counting quicker. If the chart is numbered or has boxes of 5 or 10 then it makes life easier.

For easy square shapes like the blue square then just multiply the rows by the stitches. There are 100 stitches in the blue square.

If the shape is irregular like the purple shape, then find any square or rectangular shapes – such as the area outlined in green and work out how many sts are in this i.e. multiply the rows by the stitches. There are 140 sts in this section. Then count by hand the small purple bit that is left – 25 sts in this section. Add the two sections together and there are 165 sts in this section.

Repeat this for the yellow section and there are 135 yellow sts.

I’m just going to work on the purple section now to simplify things.  The stitch count is 165 sts, which I’ll call X. You need to know how many rows are in that section too. This is easy with a numbered chart. There are 20 rows in the purple section.

The next step is to work out how much yarn a stitch uses. I’ve seen some people work this out by winding the yarn around the needle 10 times and measure this length, then divide by 10 to get the number. This would give you a good estimate but won’t perhaps be as accurate.

What I tend to do is measure how many stitches I can knit in a metre (or a yard) of yarn. I do this on my gauge swatch but if this isn’t something you do then cast on enough stitches for a swatch (say enough for 6 inches of width) and knit a row or two first.

Start at the beginning of a row, measure a metre or a yard of yarn. It doesn’t matter whether you’re metric or imperial , just work in what you’re used to.

Make a slip knot at the metre/yard mark.

Use either a lockable stitch marker, safety pin or even a paper clip and attach it through the loop of the slip knot (where the knitting needle normally goes).

Then pull it up tight.

Work across your stitches until you reach the knot. Count how many stitches you’ve worked.

In my sample, I worked 59 stitches in a yard. If working in imperial, divide this number by 36 and that’s how many stitches can be worked in an inch. If working in metric, divide this number by 100 and that’s how many stitches can be worked in a centimetre. My number is 1.64 (rounded to 2 decimal places). I’m going to call this figure Z. I can work 1.64 stitches in 1 inch.

I’ve got all the numbers I need to work out how much yarn we need for the purple section.

• Number of stitches – 165 – X
• Number of rows – 20. The rows give a bit of leeway for moving across stitches and up and down rows. Multiply this number by 2. 20 x 2 = 40 and call it Y.
• Stitches per inch/cm – 1.64 – Z

Number of stitches + number of rows multiplied by 2. 165 + 40 = 205

Divide this number by the stitches per inch/cm. 205 ÷ 1.64 = 125

Add 12 inches / 30 cms for tails. 125 +12 = 137 inches

The yarn I need for the purple section is 137 inches.

For those that like numbers then here’s a formula that sums it all up – (unintentional pun!)

This can be a little time consuming if you have a huge chart and it’s not practical in all circumstances. However, it’s a useful thing to know how to do.

Once you’ve got all your yarn then wind into bobbins and you’re ready to start knitting.

Personally, I can’t stand the plastic knitting bobbins. They weigh your knitting down, bang about, taffle together and stop you from getting into a flow with your knitting.

I’d recommend winding them into butterfly bobbins. There isn’t any added weight to your knitting, if you have a taffle you can just pull the yarn through and if you’re using shorter lengths then there’s less to taffle anyway.

Here’s how I make butterfly bobbins.

I wind bobbins on my hands. For a smaller amount of yarn, I’ll do this over just two fingers. For most circumstances then I’ll use four. Give yourself enough of a tail to get it out of the way of winding. This needs to stay free because this is the end you knit from.

Use the photographs as a guide but basically wind the yarn in a figure of eight shape. Some people just wind it around without the figure of eight – not tried it myself though. I always think the figure of eight keeps the strands stacked on top of each other so they are easier to pull out.

Keep winding…..

Continue until you’ve got enough left to wind around – probably about 16 inches/40 cm (more is better than less).

Slide the yarn off your hand holding it firmly in the middle so it doesn’t unravel.

Wind the tail end of the yarn around the middle section. Do this firmly but not too tight as the yarn wants to run through underneath. Continue until there is only a small amount of yarn left.

Loop the yarn….

Slide it over the end of the yarn to the middle (where you’ve been winding around).

Pull it tight. If you’re winding from a ball then just clip the yarn short.

To use the butterfly, pull the yarn from end where you started (not the end that is wrapped around the butterfly).

Photo Tutorial: Neater Knit to Purl Yarnovers

My pattern Ticklepenny, that is in Knitty Deep Fall 2014 issue, uses knit to purl yarnovers. See the panels of leaves down the side of the socks...

The normal way of doing this can make a yarnover which is larger than a purl to knit yarnover. When they are near one another then it can make it look a little unbalanced. 

There’s a little trick you can do to make them neater – basically, wrap the yarnover clockwise around the needle instead. This does mean you have to remember on the next row/round and either re-seat it or work into the back of it.

The bottom leaf has normal knit to purl yarnovers and the top leaf has the neater version (there's not a huge difference in this example but it can be more obvious depending on the yarn and your knitting style).

I’ll explain in more detail.

A normal knit to purl yarnover is made by bringing the yarn under the right needle, then…

...over the top of the needle and back under again and because it is worked by effectively going around the needle twice, there is extra yarn and the yarnover is bigger than a purl to knit yarnover.

So for a neater knit to purl yarnover -

1. Normally, the yarn would be at the front for a purl stitch, leave it at the back and insert your needle into the next stitch as if to purl.

2. Purl the stitch. By not bringing the yarn to the front you’ve created a backwards yarnover before the purl.

3. It should look like this. The stitch below is being pulled up by the shorter backwards yarnover.

4. The next step is how to deal with it on the next round/row. It looks the same on the next row,  whether you are working in the round or flat. It looks like this.

5. Work the first stitch and then it should look like the next picture, with the backwards yarnover and the purl stitch that has been pulled up on the left needle.

6. First method is to knit into the back of the stitch, insert right needle from front to back and knit the yarnover (if you need to purl your yarnover, purl through the back loop instead), once this has been worked the purl stitch relaxes and you can then purl it. I sometimes find this tricky to see so I tend to drop the yarnover and re-seat it in its correct position.

7. Second method - drop just the yarnover from the needle.

8. It will then look like this.

9. Pick up the yarnover by going from front to back with the left hand needle…

10. Repeat as necessary...

Photo Tutorial: Twisted German / Old Norwegian Cast-On

Everyone has their go-to or workhorse cast-on. More often than not it can be a Knitted cast-on or a Long-Tailed cast-on; or perhaps the Cable cast-on. The one I tend to use is the Twisted German cast-on, also known as Old Norwegian cast-on. For speed I’m going to call it – TGCO.

The reasons I prefer this one are –

• I find it to be the quickest one to do (look at the video at the bottom to see how fast)
• It has a good balance between being a stretchy cast-on, as well as, springing back into place. I find the knitted cast-ons tend to be too tight for most situations.
• It creates a strong stable stitch that is easy to knit into on that first row. Some cast-ons can be very tricky or time-consuming on that first row.
• It is also a fantastic cast-on for top down socks – as it is so stretchy.

Last year, I made a cast-on flow chart for the blog, which can be useful in determining what type of cast on to use.

I prefer to learn from a photo tutorial but for those of you who prefer a video, there’s a quick demo video at the bottom of the post.

Step 1: TGCO is a type of long tailed cast-on, so first of all measure out enough yarn to cast on the full length. A good starting point to work this out is, for DK weight yarn or thinner, then 1/2 inch per stitch plus 6 inches and for thicker yarn then 1 inch per stitch plus 6 inches. Make a slip knot and put it on your needle. I don’t think it matters much but I tend to put the ball end of the yarn at the back (over my forefinger).

Step 2: Place your fingers between the strands and tilt your hand back into a catapult position. This creates a cross on the thumb strand.

Step 3: Take the tip of the needle to the front and under the two strands crossed on your thumb.

Step 4: From that position, now go over the top of this and down into the centre of the two strands on the thumb.

Step 5: Now pull the needle to the front – the back strand of the thumb will be on the needle.

Step 6: Now keeping the strand on the needle, take it over all the strands on the thumb and the first one on the forefinger.

Step 7: Hook the first strand on the forefinger with the needle and pull it through the little gap next to the needle.

Step 8: The next step is to drop the strand from the thumb – I tend to tilt my thumb forward…..

…and just as it drops off my thumb, I swing down and pick the strand at the bottom back onto my thumb (that way the whole cast-on is smooth and there is no slowing down between stitches).

Step 9: Once the bottom strand is on the thumb, pull back to your left and back into the slingshot position. Pull the strand so the stitch sits on the needle. I find that if you pull to the left rather than tightening it by pulling to the floor, the cast on will be stretchy. There are occasions that you want a tight cast-on and in those situations I may pull it down instead. It may take some time to find the right tension for you but pulling to left is a good place to start.

Step 10: Repeat steps 2-9 until you have the desired number of stitches.

If you’d like a PDF of this tutorial then just follow this link.

A video to give you an idea of how it flows and how fast you can cast-on.